Plug the speaker jack in and out several times while watching the Sound-output system preference panel. The internal speaker option will come on if the switch is unstuck. Taking a toothpick and fiddling around inside the jack has solved the problem for some, you should try this. (Don't break the toothpick inside:)). Pretty much every Chromebook out there has speakers built in, and almost all of them have at least one other audio output as well—be it a 3.5mm headphone jack, or Bluetooth. Sometimes, however, you may need to let your Chromebook know where you want the audio to come from. Windows 10 'No Audio Output Device is Installed' internal speakers I had this laptop since January of this year, 2018, and I use Windows 10 on here. The laptop itself is an HP Omen and the internal speakers are not being detected, in its place is something when I right click it called 'Speaker Setup (Unknown)' as if it is detecting a different.
I have a Bose Soundtouch 300 sound bar that is connected to my OLED Gallery series TV (2020) via HDMI ARC. I set it to HDMI ARC so the sound comes out of my soundbar instead of my internal speakers. After a while I turn off the TV and later on turn it back on. When I turn it on, sound starts coming out of my sound bar, then switches to the TV, then switches to the sound bar, and back to the TV where it stays. Then I have to manually switch it to HDMI ARC to output sound from my soundbar. Is there any way to prevent this so it just defaults to HDMI ARC and never outputs through the internal speakers?
Answers
Does the Bose 300 turn off with the TV or does it remain powered on?
Hi all, I seem to be having a similar issue. I have the LG OLED 77GX and a Bose soundtouch 300 connected via the HDMI ARC. I can manually switch the sound output to the HDMI ARC and everything works great, but the next time I power on the system, the settings will revert to internal speakers, requiring me to manually switch back every time. The sound at does indeed power on/off with the TV. If I connect the sound bar via optical, the issue is corrected, but honestly would like to take advantage of the benefits of HDMI ARC if I possibly can. Any advice/insight on the matter would be appreciated. Thanks!
I’m having the same issue, with the same soundbar. The soundbar does switch off with the tv but tv keeps reverting to internal speakers. Any possible solution?
- Does the Bose 300 turn off with the TV or does it remain powered on?</p>','bodyRaw':[{'insert':'Does the Bose 300 turn off with the TV or does it remain powered on? n'}],'format':'Rich','dateInserted':'2020-10-14T21:58:16+00:00','insertUser':{'userID':11379,'name':'LGModerator1','photoUrl':'https://lgcommunity.us.com/uploads/userpics/949/n9IT02BE7TJQ1.jpg','dateLastActive':'2020-12-18T17:54:29+00:00'},'displayOptions':{'showUserLabel':false,'showCompactUserInfo':true,'showDiscussionLink':false,'showPostLink':false,'showCategoryLink':false,'renderFullContent':false,'expandByDefault':false},'url':'https://lgcommunity.us.com/discussion/comment/24292#Comment_24292','embedType':'quote'}'>
My SoundTouch does turn on and off with the tv. Exact same issue with hdmi arc switching back to internal speakers.
Exact same problem though i'm not totally sure if it keeps switching between internal speakers and sound bar. The sound bar comes on when i turn the tv on when it was last on HDMI ARC but about 2 out of 3 times, it quickly stays on internal speakers. 1/3 of times it works. This has only started in the last couple of days for me. For the last 4 weeks or so there was no issue at all and it worked exactly as it should
No one has any clue why the ARC isn't working properly? Or how to set the TV to default to ARC? It wouldn't be so bad except for the LG menu makes you do a lot of clicking to change the output back to ARC
I have the same issue.
soundbar turns on & off with TV but tv reverts to internal speakers every time it’s powered on.
Any solution to this?
my soundbar is a JBL unit. Worked fine with my last LG TV.
- I have the same issue. </p>
soundbar turns on & off with TV but tv reverts to internal speakers every time it’s powered on. </p>
Any solution to this?</p>
my soundbar is a JBL unit. Worked fine with my last LG TV.</p>','bodyRaw':[{'insert':'I have the same issue. nsoundbar turns on & off with TV but tv reverts to internal speakers every time it’s powered on. nAny solution to this?nmy soundbar is a JBL unit. Worked fine with my last LG TV. n'}],'format':'Rich','dateInserted':'2021-01-07T15:02:56+00:00','insertUser':{'userID':66779,'name':'lgkav','photoUrl':'https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/cb12e364e61b4a36677e9bfaa09ea406/?default=https%3A%2F%2Fvanillicon.com%2Fa85661705f9ba9f87edc62841d2c730b_200.png&rating=g&size=200','dateLastActive':'2021-01-07T15:00:10+00:00'},'displayOptions':{'showUserLabel':false,'showCompactUserInfo':true,'showDiscussionLink':false,'showPostLink':false,'showCategoryLink':false,'renderFullContent':false,'expandByDefault':false},'url':'https://lgcommunity.us.com/discussion/comment/25925#Comment_25925','embedType':'quote'}'>
Does the Bose 300 turn off with the TV or does it remain powered on?</p>','bodyRaw':[{'insert':'Does the Bose 300 turn off with the TV or does it remain powered on? n'}],'format':'Rich','dateInserted':'2020-10-14T21:58:16+00:00','insertUser':{'userID':11379,'name':'LGModerator1','photoUrl':'https://lgcommunity.us.com/uploads/userpics/949/n9IT02BE7TJQ1.jpg','dateLastActive':'2021-01-15T22:57:53+00:00'},'displayOptions':{'showUserLabel':false,'showCompactUserInfo':true,'showDiscussionLink':false,'showPostLink':false,'showCategoryLink':false,'renderFullContent':false,'expandByDefault':false},'url':'https://lgcommunity.us.com/discussion/comment/24292#Comment_24292','embedType':'quote'}'>SAME ISSUE, but with a LG SN6Y soundbar connected via HDMI ARC (only). Soundbar keeps reverting to OPTICAL upon power-up, and therefore no sound because there is no optical cable connected.
I have a CX 65” with the same problem of switching between soundbar and internal speakers, while using HDMI ARC. Found a solution elsewhere on this site. When I turn on the soundbar FIRST, then the tv , then it works as it should. I use a Harmony smart control to have a “delay” on starting the tv. This works for cable box. When I try to switch to Netflix or another app, I get no sound. Go figure.
'After much tinkering, I was able to get soundbar to work with Netflix. Had to change settings as follows:
Go to :
“All Settings”
“Sound”
“Additional Settings”
“Digital Sound Out”
From “Auto” to “Pass Through
Now Netflix works with soundbar (and Harmony remote)
Remember to turn soundbar on FIRST, then tv.
Hope this helps someone.
'After much tinkering, I was able to get soundbar to work with Netflix. Had to change settings as follows:
Go to :
“All Settings”
“Sound”
“Additional Settings”
“Digital Sound Out”
From “Auto” to “Pass Through
Now Netflix works with soundbar (and Harmony remote)
Remember to turn soundbar on FIRST, then tv.
Hope this helps someone.
Exact issue but with all LG parts. I assumed it was the LG Soundbar and not the TV but since your having ARC issues with a non LG soundbar it makes me think it is the TV.
The LG SN10YG turns on with the TV, using CEC and the settings on the soundbar allowing the TV to turn it on/off as well as control volume.
Both turn on fine but seemingly at random times the TV sound ends up on internal speakers. The soundbar is still on and on my LG Sn10YG the screen on the front still says HDMI, so it seems to think its on ARC still. I have tried several of the remotes from the LG TV remote and the LG soundbar remote remote and the bar seems to think its volume is moving but its not. The TV I can tell is using internal speakers almost immediately because the volume when on internal speakers shows numbers on it. When using the bar the TV volume gauge looks smaller and does not show numbers.
Sometimes you can get it back to using ARC by toggling the SB input. Sometimes it requires a complete reboot and reset of the soundbar. I cannot tell though now if its the TV ARC thats 'crashing' or the SB. I say crashing because it seems to also happen if the family changes channels sometimes, so that would mean there is no power toggle occuring, just changes in sound source type perhaps as different channels like ESPN vs HGTV might be sending a different sound source type over. I am using all new highest end ARC cables as well. The hours I have spent re-runnning audio cables, returning cables and buying new ones trying to figure this out is ridiculous
Had the same issues with my slightly older OLED 55 B8 with older LG SN6K soundbar and I had hoped it had to do with the older SB. Now I sunk a grand in the Atmos SN10YG to use with the 75'LG nano90 we just bought.
We are seeing similar, although not exact, audio issues. We have an OLED65GXPUA. The ARC is connected to a Pioneer VSK-1021 receiver.
Using the Magic remote for all functions, most of the equipment powers on/off as expected (minus the Apple TV box which won't turn on automatically which is an Apple configuration issue and not the TV - rant off). Occasionally however when powering on the equipment, a notification flashes in the upper right hand corner of the display that the Pioneer receiver is not available (I have labeled my HDMI inputs.) When this happens and we attempt to change the volume, the TV flashes a grey circle with a line through it, similar to this ⦸, on the right hand side of the display, where we would normally see the volume indictor for a change in the volume, basically telling us there are no sound devices.
When I check the audio settings of the TV, sometimes they have changed to the internal speakers, and other times they have switched to a some other output other than ARC. Without messing with output settings, I can work around it by simply changing the eARC setting. Regardless of the eARC setting at the time (enabled/disabled), if I toggle that, something gets reset, the TV switches back to the ARC output, and the audio and functions work fine. After that, it does not matter what I do with the eARC setting, the audio continues to work. So for example, the audio is not working and when I check that setting it was toggled off, which it is most of the time. I then toggle eARC on, the audio kicks back on, and works normally. I can either leave eARC where it is, or I can switch it back, and the audio continues to work.
My hypothesis is that TV is timing out too quickly on the CEC handshake between devices. My theory is, the TV sends the signal for the device to power up. If the device takes a split second too long to respond, the TV believes the device did not power up as expected, and then attempts to switch to a different output to work around that. However, the device is on and responding on the ARC at which point the TV gets confused and says '<insert derogatory term or terms here> I give up.' A timing problem would explain why turning the receiver/sound bar on first works around the issue. Messing with anything to do with ARC, such as the eARC option, one would think, would also force the TV to re-initiate the CEC handshake to see if something were connected.
For full disclosure, I am not a programmer or engineer, but my personal opinion is this is probably something that could be easily fixed in a software update.
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Apple, in their wisdom (I must assume), have made the Sound preferences on OS X somewhat limited. There is no immediately obvious way to play sound through multiple devices, and no way whatsoever to play sound through headphones and the internal speakers simultaneously, or, God forbid, to direct system notifications sounds to one, and standard sound output to the other.
There is, however, a way to play sound simultaneously through external speakers and the internal (or, the headphones—whether connected to headphones or another set of external speakers). Here’s my usage scenario. I have a Bluetooth speaker (the JBL Charge). Using the following method my system plays sound simultaneously through the JBL speaker and my internal speakers (or the desktop speakers I plug into my headphone port).
The magic…
You’ll need to use an OS X system utility called Audio MIDI Setup. Just type that into Spotlight (hit ⌘-Spacebar to access Spotlight quickly).
You will see I have a Multi-Output Device (MOD). You can create this by clicking the little + button at the lower left corner. Select Create Multi-Output Device and you’ll end up with something similar. Select the MOD, and in the right panel you can select the devices you’d like sound to play through. I found I had the best results when I set the Master Device to “Built-in Output” (assuming you wish to use that device as part of your MOD). I then ticked Drift Correction on the JBL Charge (in my case). Make sure both devices are set to the same Sample Rate. You do this by selecting each device under the MOD in the left panel. My JBL Charge was locked in to 44,100.0 Hz 2ch-32bit Float, so I set the Built-in Output to this setting too.
I also found I had best results when I selected Resample this subdevice on each device in the MOD. Just Control-click (or two-finger click, if your Mac is set up for that) to bring up the context menu on each Subdevice.
Changing output selection
You can select the Output Device either in the Audio Devices window or in the standard System Preferences > Sound panel. Of course, you can option-click on the Sound volume icon in your menu bar, and select the Output Device there. If you choose Multi-Output Device, you’ll have sound coming out of all the devices set up in the MOD you set up.
Volume Control
You’ll notice the normal system-wide volume controller no longer works. It’s greyed out. So you’ll need to set the volume in the Audio Devices window of the Audio MIDI Setup application. You can set the volume of each device in your MOD independently.
Help Content
There’s some excellent Help info on how to use the Audio MIDI Setup application. Here’s a copy of some of the content that’s related to what I’ve shared in this article.
Combine audio devices to use a single device
You can combine several audio devices to use as a single device, known as an “aggregate device.” By aggregating devices, you can increase the number of discrete audio inputs and outputs without purchasing more expensive multichannel audio equipment.
For example, if you have an eight-channel audio device and a two-channel audio device, you can combine them to work as a single ten-channel audio device.
For the aggregate device to work correctly, the combined devices in the aggregate device must be set to the same sample rate.
- Click the Add buttonin the Audio Devices window, then choose Create Aggregate Device. To rename the device, double-click it.
- Select the Use checkbox of each device you want to include in the aggregate device.
The list on the right shows the currently connected audio devices and the number of input and output channels for each device. - To use the clock of one device as the master clock for all the combined devices, choose the device from the Clock Source pop-up menu.
For more information about aggregate device settings, see Aggregate device settings.
You can use the aggregate device for sound input, sound output, or for alerts and sound effects.
To remove an aggregate device, select it on the right side of the Audio Devices window, then click the Delete button .
Aggregate device settings
For your aggregate device to work correctly, all devices in the aggregate device need to have the same sample rate.
The sample rate of each device should match the sample rate of the device chosen from the “Clock source” pop-up menu.
Set the sample rate
- Click the disclosure triangle next to the name of your aggregate device.
- Select one of the devices that’s part of your aggregate device, then choose the sample rate from the first Format pop-up menu.
- Repeat step 2 for all devices in the aggregate device. Make sure to choose the same setting for each device from the first Format pop-up menu.
Enable drift correction
If the devices in your aggregate device aren’t synchronized using hardware, you need to enable drift correction also known as resampling, in order to compensate for drift in the data coming from or going to devices.
Why Does My Mac Not Have Internal Speakers
- Select the aggregate device in the list.
- Choose your aggregate device settings.
- If all devices in the aggregate device aren’t synchronized through hardware, choose the device with the most reliable clock from the “Clock source” pop-up menu. Then select the Drift Correction checkbox for each device.
- If some of the devices in the aggregate device are synchronized through hardware, choose the hardware synchronization’s clock master from the “Clock source” pop-up menu. Then select the Drift Correction checkbox for each device that isn’t synchronized through hardware.
- If all devices in the aggregate device are synchronized through hardware, choose the hardware synchronization’s clock master from the “Clock source” pop-up menu. Make sure none of the Drift Correction checkboxes are selected.